Our Back Yard
One of the delights of this adventure is enjoying the change in
backyards from our back porch. A bit of description is called for as
our "back porch" is our cockpit where we, in reality, spend most of
our time when on the boat. A comfortable back porch was high on our
list when choosing a boat. We read, relax and eat most of our meals on
the back porch, resorting to going below when it is too dark to do
anything constructive. We have set the back porch up so we can install
bug screens when it is buggy and plastic panels when it is windy,
rainy or cold - the plastic is getting a good workout. From here,
during breakfast or dinner, we can survey and enjoy our domain.
During this past week, we have enjoyed a variety of views - from the
hustle and bustle of the Annapolis Spa Creek Bridge to the quiet of
tree-lined creeks to watching huge war ships being built and
manouvered around us as they make their way to sea. We have also
enjoyed some fantastic sunsets (Karen and I are not early risers so
sunrises will be left to someone else to describe), watching huge sea
nettles (jellyfish) swim by, and herons trying to support themselves.
This week we left the comfort of Annapolis and worked our way down the
Chesapeake to Hampton Roads, then Norfolk. Norfolk, the site of what
must be one of the largest naval bases in the world, is also at the
ocean end of the Chesapeake, and is, most importantly for us, at mile
zero of the ICW. Yes, we have been traveling for 3 months and have
finally got to mile zero. Fortunately, as someone pointed out to us,
we are exactly half way between New York and Florida, so we have made
some progress.
On Monday, we caught the 8:30 bridge opening out of Spa Creek and
motor sailed under sunny skies to the Solomons. We anchored up a small
creek tucked away from any winds. From there, we dinghied to town and
tied up at the Holiday Inn dinghy dock to wander the town. We stayed
at the Solomons for a few days to explore and to wait out the next
cold front. The front came through Tuesday (at 11:30pm of course). The
rain sheeted down and the winds gusted to 30 knots. Our anchor held
and later that night we were able to get some sleep. On the afternoon
prior to the front, we were treated to an air show at our anchorage as
we were in the flight path to the neighbouring air force base. They
have bombing sites along the Chesapeake (restricted zones on the
charts which you really should avoid) and different types of planes
were taking off and landing all day. Our next hop was to Sandy Point
on the Great Wicomico River, a fairly open anchorage but easy to get
into and out of. The weather was supposed to be 10-15 knots from the
southwest, the direction we wished to travel. Well, the southwest
part was right, but it was 20-25 knots. This made for a lumpy, rail in
the water beat into short choppy seas for about 8 hours. As I thought
that it would be an easy day, I did not seal the anchor locker well
and the water poured through the opening into the boat. Thus we took
part of the Chesapeake with us in our bilge to Sandy Point. However,
about half way through the day, we did see our first pelicans enjoying
a leisurely fly by our boat. This was the highlight of the day.
Next we moved to Deltaville. We had a leisurely motorsail that we
appreciated after the previous day. Deltaville had been hit hard by
Isabel and the entrance had changed from the charts. This was
interesting as the entrance was tricky to begin with and now all the
guide books were off. You basically had to drive towards land until
you thought you were on the beach, make a sharp turn away from the
entrance for 100 yards and then turn back towards the entrance. We
came in the early afternoon and, with the sun overhead, could see the
shoal areas quite clearly. Boats that came in later were not as lucky
as the sun was low making it difficult to see any shoaling and several
boats ran aground. After a few days in Deltaville, the weather
forecast sounded good for a sail down the Chesapeake to Hampton. The
winds were supposed to be from the west at 10 knots. A west wind would
make a nice beam reach (wind coming on the side of the boat - our
boat's fastest point of sail). We left at 8:00am and were greeted by a
horizon full of sailboats. From every creek and river, boats were
emerging and hoisting sails. One boat announced over the radio that
they counted over 40 boats leaving the area. Everyone thought that it
was a good day to move. Well the winds picked up after we left the bay
to 20-25 knots from the southwest; we were heading due south. So once
again, we had a rail in the water beat with double reefed mainsail
down the Chesapeake. The waves were short and steep as the water is
fairly shallow. The sail was an uncomfortable run but it was fast. At
one point, we hit a series of large waves, fell about 5 feet off one
wave (it is an impressive splash when an 8 ton boat falls 5 feet into
the water) and our hanging lamp went flying. Fortunately the lamp
survived and so did we. We made it to an anchorage at Hampton by
4:00pm, set the anchor and settled in for a quiet evening. We had made
it to the ocean end of the Chesapeake.