Beam Reach
We took our dinghy around to Le Marin on Tuesday and checked out for a
Wednesday departure. Customs was again great and the check out was
easy. They did not mind us checking out early and leaving the next
day. This was a real help as we could set up our boat and get an early
start. So at the crack of 0800 on Wednesday (an early start is how you
define it), we raised anchor and set sail for Rodney Bay, St. Lucia.
We had a great beam reach sail (wind on the side of the boat) to St.
Lucia. The winds were about 20 knots, gusting to 25 in the channel
between islands, and waves were in the 10 to 12 foot range in the
channel - quite exciting. We had a double-reefed mainsail and a full
120% jib and Vagus flew at hull speed along the waves. One wave during
our passage, one of those "rogue waves" people talk about, humped up
beside us and broke into the cockpit. The cockpit floor was covered by
a couple of inches of water but nothing went down the companionway. I
was soaked, but as we travel in bathing suits, it was actually nice
and refreshing. Vagus loves this point of sail and as we are moving
South with prevailing easterly winds we are enjoying some of the best
sailing yet. The passages between islands are usually quite lively as
wind and seas funnel between the islands. Thus sea height, wind
speeds, and current increase. In the lee of the islands, the seas are
down and the sailing is more comfortable. We reached Rodney Bay at
1200, and anchored in a beautiful bay. In the afternoon, we checked in
(simple procedure) and went out to dinner to celebrate arrival in a
new country.
At Rodney Bay, we actually found a mall with many stores and some of
them were duty free. Karen, the non-shopper, was ecstatic as you do
need different clothes here than in Canada, mainly lots of bathing
suits that you generally live in. There were also lots of marine
supplies in the area so it would not be difficult getting supplies,
mostly at duty free prices. They will even order in for you if they do
not have them. Prices of marine parts were cheaper than in Martinique
(due to the strength of the Euro) and were probably in line with US
prices.
Next, we went by dinghy to Pigeon Island. The island used to be a
British base and was used to harass the French on Martinique.
Actually, St. Lucia changed hands between the British and French 7
times. Most of the towns and bays have French names and the people
speak Creole and English. On French-speaking Martinique the people
also speak Creole, so at least the island people could communicate
together as the British and French played at empire building. Pigeon
Island is a park and there are many remnants of the original fort. We
hiked to the top of the hill to view the island and the channel
between the islands. It was a fair hike and a fantastic view. There
were even guns at the top with a munitions room and a cistern. It must
have been a significant challenge getting those guns to the top of the
rocky hill. Beside the park, a causeway had been created to connect
the island to the mainland. In the causeway was a Sandals resort with
a beautiful sand beach. It looked like a neat place to play. There was
reasonable snorkeling on a reef just off the park. We had to anchor
our dinghy in a sandy patch and swim from our dinghy to the reef.
A tropical wave came through on Saturday. A tropical wave is like a
front in that it produces showers and squalls, and takes about a day
to move through. So Saturday was not a good travel day. We were able
to get our laundry done by Sparkle Laundry who picked up from our boat
and delivered the washed and folded laundry back later that afternoon
- great service. Unfortunately we missed the start of a dominos game
at a local yacht club. What can I say, I could not find the club by
dinghy and had to ask directions. By the time we got to the club, the
game was well underway. We did meet some more cruisers though,
including a couple that are staying in the same marina as us in
Grenada. We also learned a new domino game (called Mexican Train)
which we have switched to playing.