We mentioned the promise of more adventures. Well, the next challenge was going through Current Cut. Current Cut is known for, of course, the current that rages through the narrow cut during ebb and flood tides. It was extremely important we know the time of the tide changes to pass through safely and this information was not available in any guides. So based on Nassau tide tables and local knowledge and recommendations, as well as much discussion among other cruisers, we finally determined the best time to go through that day was at 11:00 am. We had to leave Pelican Cay at first light and motor approximately 25 miles to time our arrival for this event. Actually, Julia B, who we were travelling with, and two other boats, all showed up for this time so if we were wrong, we were all wrong. The "local knowledge" directions to go through Current Cut were to approach from approximately 500m South of the cut, drive straight for the rocks until you figure you can lean over the side and sharpen your knife on the rocks. Then you hang a right, proceed to well past the last rock approaching the opposite bank, and then hang a left. At this point, you proceed through the cut. It sounded like a good Monday morning adventure. By adjusting engine speed, we got to the cut as planned. All four boats proceeded through the cut in a row. We were the last boat, as we wanted to see what happened. It turned out to be not too bad at all although the rocks did definitely look not fiberglass friendly. However, there was room for our boat in the narrow channel. We were about 20 minutes late (we should have listened to the other local person) so we went through on the ebb. It was a bit like being squirted out a water bottle as part way through the cut, the water was boiling and the current was already running at 3 knots. We were literally expelled out the other side. We were surprised how quickly the current increased as the first boat through had considerably less current than us.

From the Cut, it was a nice motor under sunny skies through 8-foot deep, crystal clear water. The moorings in Spanish Wells were full with boats trying to get to the Abacos, so we went to the marina with Julia B. The marina was an exercise in contrasts. The docks were all new and in good shape, but the buildings were all post-hurricane decor. Everything was damaged beyond use except for one washroom with a shower in one of the gutted rooms. Apparently the money for reconstruction ran out. A new marina was in the works - due to start any day apparently. Some cruisers told us it has been this way for 5 years! However, it was good to get in and wash the boat and us of all the accumulated salt. We knew we would be here for a week as the next round of winds was due to hit. This year apparently was an unusual year for high winds according to the locals. But, if you listen closely, every year appears to be unusual.

We wandered the town that was again full of friendly, helpful people. Spanish Wells is on an island and is a working town (as opposed to a tourist town) supporting a lobster fishing fleet. There was obviously more money available as the place was very clean and the houses were well kept, and brightly and nicely painted. A lot of homes had artwork painted on the exterior walls. The gardens were incredible, containing all manners of plant life and fruit trees such as orange, banana, and mango. One house had turned their yard into an aviary with a variety of birds. There were even a few, very well fed Canadian geese. These guys will not be flying home or probably flying anywhere. We have never seen such round Canadian geese! There were not many cars (and few roads) on the island so most of the transportation was by golf carts. We saw rows of golf carts parked at the grocery store. There was also no crime. It was not necessary to lock the dinghy and golf carts. Spanish Wells did have a small museum that was fun to go through and talk to the volunteer looking after it for the day. There was information dating back to the original Indian settlers and the ongoing debate of where did Christopher Columbus really land.

The people again were great. The grocery checkout clerk offered to drive us back to the boat when I struggled to get my Karen-packed backpack on. I guess my red face was an indication. A lady also stopped us on the street while we were carrying some recently purchased diesel jugs back to the boat. She was concerned that we were carrying full diesel jugs and said that the local fuel station would deliver full jugs back to the boat if we asked. No tip was expected for this assistance. It was just something that you do to help people.

On Friday, we took the Fast Ferry (a large catamaran that does a daily run from Nassau to Spanish Wells and onto Harbour Island) on a day trip to Harbour Island. Harbour Island is known for its upscale resorts and pink sand beaches. To get there by boat involved hiring a pilot to take you through some of the most difficult reef formations and coral heads in the Bahamas. The pass is called the Devil's Backbone and has earned that moniker. Many ships have been wrecked on these shores. When we went through, there were also large 9 to 12 foot northerly swells due to storms in the North Atlantic. These swells would break up on the reef but march through the passes. As the swells approached the shallow water of the pass, they increased in height and started to break creating a condition called a rage. When a rage was happening, you were not able to safely go through the passes. The Ferry went parallel to the reefs but had to go also across the passes to the ocean. We had to remain seated to avoid being thrown around and the ferry had to slow down to negotiate the two entrances. We heard a child went flying out of his seat on a previous trip when the ferry didn't slow enough to take a monster wave. Once through the pass entrances, the ferry thread its way through the Devil's Backbone between reef on one side and a shore you could easily throw a ball to on the other. It was quite impressive.

We reached Harbour Island and spent a nice day walking around. Again there were golf carts everywhere and many for rent. We went over to the Atlantic side and had lunch at the Blue Bar of the Pink Sands Resort ($305 pp/night in case you were interested) overlooking the pink sand beach and the raging Atlantic Ocean. There was a reef just offshore protecting the beach but high waves were still making the beach rough for swimming. It was a beautiful beach, a lovely lunch, and a most impressive resort. The town had a number of restaurants and gift shops, as its main industry was tourism. This was apparently one of "the" places to visit, as there were many mega-yachts at the marina, including Jimmy Buffet's yacht for any of his fans. We found out too late that one of Jimmy Buffet's top-rated hamburgers (Cheeseburger in Paradise song) was made at a local restaurant (which we missed). By the way, at the marina one yacht's tender was a 40-foot Sports Fisherman powerboat. You can just imagine the size of the yacht (ship?)!