Cruising Again
After our launch, we settled into life at anchor in Prickly Bay. It
was now time to get Vagus ready to go Cruising. There were a lot of
boats in the anchorage in the same situation. Many of them were
waiting for parts to be made or shipped in, and many were waiting for
a new mast. Masts were in short supply and some people did not expect
to get their mast until the fall. So all in all, we were lucky as we
were able to get our major repairs done in four months. Our days were
spent going to the automatic cash withdrawal unit at the local bank to
withdraw our daily maximum in $EC, then going to the riggers to pay
part of our bill in cash. They offered a discount for cash and as our
insurance has still not come through, we were trying to minimize
costs. I also got to send Karen up to the top of the mast to retrieve
a jammed halyard (I jammed it). We first had to wait until the roll in
the bay settled down. Early one morning, the bay was calm enough and
Karen volunteered. She enjoyed hanging around 50 feet above the water.
I think that was because that was the farthest she could get away from
me on a 36 foot boat. We spent several days with the engine apart as I
tried to get cooling water to come out the exhaust end. Water coming
out the exhaust is very important to prevent overheating of the engine
- no water is a bad sign. After several attempts - you never get it on
the first one - I found the problem and the engine happily gurgled
away after starting. We then did a fuel run to top up our diesel tank.
This exercise involved getting a few cruisers together, ferrying our
empty containers by dinghy to the nearby dock, and hiring a taxi to
take us to the local gas station so we could fill our fuel containers.
Nothing is simple. We also arranged airline tickets for our trek home
and Haul-out for Vagus in Trinidad. We have discovered it is much
cheaper and more convenient to fly out of Trinidad to Toronto so have
decided to store Vagus in Trinidad this year. While in Prickly we saw
many huge and interesting boats come to anchor in the outer part of
the Bay. One was a magnificent sailboat called Endeavor - a very
large J Boat that was originally built in the 1920's, extensively
rebuilt a few years ago and is a beautiful classic design. The mast
was 184 feet high and the mainsail dwarfed all the other sails in the
anchorage. Karen said she wouldn't volunteer to go up THAT mast. It
was something to see in person. As well, our British friends made a
concerted effort to get me to pronounce my "t's". I believe that I can
now saw "wah Ter" with the best of them. We got together with some
friends, hired a taxi and went to the Aquarium restaurant for lunch
and a snorkel on the reef in front of the restaurant. It was a great
afternoon. We had by that time completed our "must do" list and were
getting ready to leave. The weather was looking good so we called into
the local VHF Net on Friday morning to say goodbye to all the people
that we had met. A number of people showed up at De Big Fish that
night to wish us well. It was amazing that we had been four months in
Grenada. During that time we made many friends and got to know the
island and some of the people. It was hard to say good bye but it was
time to move on. We plan to return.
Saturday morning found us raising anchor and heading into the wind and
waves. We rounded the bottom, western corner of Grenada, raised all
our sails, turned off the motor and headed North. Although we were
quite anxious at actually moving the boat (hopefully everything was
working), we had a great sail. Princess One-tack was on board so we
managed to sail from the bottom of Grenada to Tyrrel Bay in Carriacou
(about 40 miles) on one tack - all at near hull speed. We even managed
to miss the underwater volcano at the top of Grenada. There is a 1.5
kilometer exclusion zone around the volcano as it has been known to
burp. Sailing in the lee of the island was beautiful as the winds were
fresh and there were no waves. It was a bit rough after leaving the
protection of the island of Grenada, but Vagus did well. We were still
looking for our sea legs.
We pulled into Carriacou about 1400 and anchored in a Tyrrel Bay. It
was nice to see homes with roofs on - not blue tarps. Carriacou had
high winds when Ivan came through but did not experience the degree of
damage that occurred in Grenada. Carriacou is still part of the nation
of Grenada and is a nice, laid-back, little island. Many cruisers
make this their home base. It is an island known for having a hundred
rum shops and only one gas station. We did a little exploring on foot
(we found the gas station but did not frequent the rum shops) and
visited the Carriacou Yacht Club. Karen insisted I buy a yacht club
ball cap as my present cap had been through too many boat projects and
was looking a little disreputable. I thought that I was fitting right
into the cruiser scene (I believe she said that was the problem). We
took the local bus into Hillsborough - the main town in Carriacou -
and walked the town. We had lunch at a restaurant by the beach and
checked the stores for fresh produce. Produce was in short supply as
it seems they bring it over from Grenada. We weren't able to get much
while in Grenada and had been hoping for better luck in Carriacou! We
did manage to get some local lettuce but that was all. While in
Hillsborough we checked out of Grenada for the next day. This
greatly simplified our leaving the next morning.
So after four days in Carriacou we went to Clifton,Union Island, to
check in to the Island Nation of St. Vincent and The Grenadines. We
were heading North and the wind was heading South so we motor sailed.
We anchored in Clifton Harbour, put the motor on the dinghy, went to
shore, walked to the airport, cleared through Customs and
Immigration, went back to the boat, took the motor off the dinghy (we
do not pull the dinghy with the motor on), had lunch, raised anchor
and were on our way after a 1 hour stop over. From Clifton we motored
up to Salt Whistle Bay in the island of Mayreau. This anchorage is
picture-perfect. We looked out a long, curved sandy beach shaded by
palm trees. The trade winds blew through the palms keeping the
anchorage cool. It was a lovely bay and we stayed 4 nights. We
wandered the beach trails (there is a $500/night resort hidden in the
palms) and walked uphill to the town. We had a fantastic view from the
top of the hill of the Tobago Cays and the surrounding islands. At the
town, the people were very friendly. We bought fresh-baked bread at a
local restaurant. It was so fresh we had to wait for it to come out
of the oven. During that time we got the low-down on the island from
Carlton, a local boy home from school in St. Vincent. We got to sample
lobster from Joseph, a local boat vendor. Joseph came by our boat with
a huge catch of lobster still wriggling and we took him up on his
offer of barbecuing a lobster for us. Later that day, he showed up at
our boat with barbecued lobster ready to go. It was beautifully done
and enough for two nights dinner. The only draw back in the anchorage
was that it was close to the Moorings charter base in Canouan and a
"must stop" for the charterers. The bay is small so it filled with a
late afternoon rush of charter boats and boats were anchored close.
Generally the charterers did a good job of anchoring; it was just that
the charter boats were so big and the anchorage so small. The typical
charter boats seem to be in the 45 foot range with Cat boats going up
to 57 feet. When several of these catamaran's come in, they take up a
big area. These also look huge when beside you.
On Monday, March 14th, we decided to go to the Tobago Cays. The Cays
are only about 4 miles from Mayreau. So after a leisurely breakfast,
we raised anchor at 1000 and motored over. By leaving at this time,
the sun was overhead when we reached the Cays so we could see the
reefs and water depth. The Cays are another "must stop" and are
basically a few small islands surrounded by a large horseshoe reef.
You anchor in sand behind the reef and look out at the Atlantic - the
next land mass is Africa. The reef stops the Atlantic waves but you
get the full force of the trade winds. The winds are great for our
wind generator and and we have been running our water maker to fill
our tanks since we got here. The best description of the Cays is it is
like swimming in an aquarium. The water is crystal clear (same as the
Bahamas), and the fish life and reefs are abundant. There are many
moorings for our dinghy so we can snorkel different reef areas. The
islands have sandy beaches and hiking trials to explore. We had a 5
foot barracuda take up station below our boat yesterday afternoon. He
liked the shade below Vagus and hovered beneath the boat. However I
think our afternoon swim put him off and he moved on - perhaps for
dinner. So we are busy studying our fish books and are off on a fish
identification challenge. With so many fish, it is hard to remember
which ones we have seen when we get back to the boat. So each time we
snorkel Karen and I pick a fish from the book, read about it's
behaviour, and go find one or more to observe. We will let you know
when we find Nemo!