The Voyage of Vagus V
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Year 1
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Tyrrel Bay, Cariacou to Mt. Hartman Bay, Grenada
Start Date: June 14th, 2004 Location: Mt. Hartman Bay, Grenada
End Date: June 20th, 2004
Our Southern Home

So once again at the crack of dawn - well, maybe around 0700 - we upped anchor and headed South. We decided to go down the eastern side (Atlantic side) of Grenada for several reasons: the weather and seas were good for a trip down this side, it was 10 miles shorter to our destination on the South shore, and the fishing was supposed to be better. Now we do not fish, having never quite got the hang of it, but Safina does and we enjoy eating the leftovers. Also this way we avoided going past Kick-em-Jenny, an active underwater volcano between Cariacou and Grenada. There is a 1.5-mile exclusion zone over the volcano that increases to 5 miles when it is active. Our strategy worked. We had a great sail down the coast until the winds died about 5 miles from our destination, Safina caught a Cero so there was fresh for the barby that night, and we avoided the rough water around the volcano. It was a good day.

We anchored in Clarks Court Bay. The next day we went by dinghy to visit the marina where we plan to leave Vagus, and talked to the owner and the people that take care of boats for absent owners. Everything looked great as far as leaving the boat and the yacht management people were very knowledgeable and helpful. There is very little in the way of facilities as the marina is still being developed, but it has the essentials. We were also surprised to learn that the company building the docks also built our docks at LaSalle Park in Burlington. They are building the marina here in the summer and docks in Ontario in the spring. It is a small world. After checking out Clarks Court, we moved over to Mt. Hartman Bay as there were supposed to be more facilities there. Unfortunately, the Moorings charter base has just closed and the hotel and marina are in transition. The area is still beautiful but the shore side facilities are limited. It is quite a long walk to the local bus service that takes you into town (St. George's) but the bus service is excellent. Buses are frequent and for $1.50EC (about 0.75Can) you can get into town. Taxis are also plentiful when you have all those groceries. On Wednesday, we found our way to the Spice Island Mall and discovered a great grocery store with just about everything that we need.

On Thursday, the Grenadian Coast Guard boarded us. This was not our normal everyday Thursday. It is actually the first time that we have ever been boarded. They were very courteous and polite. The fellow with the big gun nicely asked permission to come aboard (what can you say) and two officers searched the boat with Karen as a guide while I filled out a boarding report in the cockpit with another two officers watching me. Two more officers stood at attention on the Coast Guard boat that was tied to Vagus. After I finished filling out forms and the officers below finished poking through the boat, they thanked us, wished us a good day, and said to call them if we ever needed assistance. They then moved onto another boat in the anchorage. Why they picked our boat and not others I do not know, but I will definitely get a haircut as soon as possible. Actually, on a sadder note, we wonder if they might have been looking for a boat that was stolen in Venezuela (one person was killed).

This is the start of the rainy season in Grenada, although this year it has apparently been raining since February. Everything is green and the flame trees are in full bloom. These trees are a brilliant red and live amongst the greener. They just look like flames in the forest and make a beautiful picture in the setting sun. Flowers are everywhere and Grenada, the Spice Island, has a most distinctive and beautiful fragrance to her air.

Friday night was Barbecue night at Martins, the bar at the marina near where we were anchored. All the cruisers showed up and for $15EC ($7.50 Can) we got a choice of barbecued fish, chicken or ribs plus accessories. It was a great night and good meeting everyone anchored around us.

Saturday was market day and there was a special bus service taking us from the marina to downtown St. GeorgeÎéÎ÷s, the capitol and the main city of Grenada. We wandered down town and explored the huge market. It truly is the Spice Island and spices are available from every vendor. There were also crafts to look at. The people were very polite. They offered their wares but did not push when you said "no, thank you". They just wished you a good day and welcomed you to their island. The people here, in general, have been great. We finished the day's tour at a local marine store that was hosting a wine tasting for a local charity. Of course, all the cruisers from several bays showed up, including many that we met the night before - after all, there was wine. The wines were all African and several of them were quite good. There is a cruiser's net on VHF 68 in the morning that announces all that is happening and news of importance to cruisers. It is well run. You can even try to sell your "treasures of the bilge".

After all this fun, we chose to be dull and had a workday on Sunday, cleaning winches and waxing the hull. Many cruisers had a great time going to the soccer match (called football here) where Grenada played the USA. Grenada lost 3 to 2 but it apparently was a good game.

Copyright © 2003-2005 Jim and Karen Lait
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