Movin' Again
It was now time to wind our way to Grenada, the Spice Island. We
could now do dayhops along the island chain - no more
overnighters for a while. The weather looked good, so we left
Bequia on Monday morning. We decided to motor to Friendship
Bay (about 4 miles), as this would give us a better sailing angle to
Mustique - home of the rich and famous. This strategy worked
quite well but we did have to pass between two pretty big rocks,
with waves on the nose breaking against the rocks. You can never
capture this in pictures although Karen tried. Fortunately the
current was slack so we did not have that to contend with as well.
Once past the rocks, we could fall off to a close reach and had a
great sail to Mustique. For any followers of the rich and famous,
Mustique residents have included Princess Margaret, Mick Jagger,
Davis Bowie, Raquel Welch and numerous others - definitely an
upscale island. We had to take a mooring, as you just do not
anchor here, and wandered ashore to Basil's Beach bar to say hi to
Raquel. Unfortunately we were in the off season and I guess the
rich and famous have other things to do and homes to tend to at
this time of year - in other words, no Raquel. The next day, we
rented a Mule (which is what happens when you intermingle a
golf cart with a small jeep) with two other couples and went off to
explore. I got to drive as there was more headroom in the driver's
seat and I have been converted to driving on the left (should be
interesting when we get home). The island was beautiful. There
were incredible homes (difficult to see as the grounds were
prepared to maximize privacy), well-manicured areas, and
wilderness areas for escapists. We stopped at one of the most
picturesque restaurants (they had four cottages to rent) that we
have ever seen. The view was incredible, overlooking the bay, and
the prices were not for the faint of heart. In general, everything on
the island was expensive. I generally judge the cost of a place by
the price of a hamburger - sort of hamburger-economy index. At
$20US, this was at the top of my scale. The anchorage was quite
rolly (read uncomfortable), so with Raquel gone, we decided that
we had enjoyed the good life long enough and it was time to
down-scale and move on.
Our next stop was Canouan, a trip of about 16 miles. We love this
island hopping. The anchorage was again rolly. We had a squall
(high wind and rain weather event) come through in the middle of
the night (when else). A wind gust picked up our dinghy (I did not
lash it down properly) and stood it on end on our fore deck. No
harm was done but it was a bit exciting. The next day we moved
to Saline Bay on Mayreau - finally a non-rolly anchorage. The day
was sunny and we had a quiet afternoon snorkeling. From
Mayreau we went to Union Island. Here we had to clear out with
customs, as we would be leaving St. Vincent. Customs were
friendly and we wandered the town. That evening we went to The
West Indies Restaurant with Safina to celebrate. I made the
mistake of ordering shrimp and got the whole thing - head and all.
Now I like shrimp but I am really a tail man. I do not like things
looking at me from my plate. Next time I will follow Karen's lead
when ordering. It was still a lovely evening.
Saturday we traveled to Clifford Bay on Cariacou. Cariacou is
part of Grenada so this was our official check into Grenada. After
visiting Customs, Immigration, the Port Authority and a place to
pay fees, we were officially checked in. Safina and Vagus were
the only sailboats in this huge anchorage. We did manage to
wander the town and find the local market for a few fresh
vegetables. From Clifford Bay, we moved down island to Tyrrel
Bay. This was the favourite anchorage of cruisers and more
crowded (and more protected). We just anchored there for the
night as we planned to leave early Monday for Grenada.