The Voyage of Vagus V
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Stuard Fl. to Lucaya, Grand Bahama Island
Start Date: December 29th, 2003 Location: Lucaya, Grand Bahama Island
End Date: January 4th, 2004
Gulf Stream and Happy New Year

On Monday, we left for Lake Worth. We had to negotiate seven bridges in 30 miles. The bridge tenders were most cooperative, even delaying scheduled openings for us to get through. We always thank the tenders for the openings and wish them well. The bridge tenders on lift bridges appear to play a bit of game with approaching boats. We would radio ahead about a mile from the bridge that we were approaching and request an opening. We would normally be told to keep on coming and they would open when we got there. So we would proceed at full speed towards a closed bridge. Just as I was starting to get nervous, the traffic arms would go down. When I got really anxious, the bridge would start to rise. Just as it reached full opening, we would be going through. If I slowed down during this process, we would be hailed to keep on coming as the tender was waiting for us. After seven bridges, I was ready to call it a day. Also, there was lots of holiday boat traffic (read large wakes!) that made the channel appear a bit like the Hudson River. Guides recommend that the ICW between Lake Worth and Miami be avoided on weekends for good reason.

We made it to Lake Worth about 3:00pm and anchored. Lake Worth, which is near Palm Beach, is a large protected anchorage surrounded by condos and homes. Boats normally wait there for favourable weather to cross the Gulf Stream. The Lake Worth channel is a class A inlet with freighters coming and going making it an all weather gateway to the ocean. The weather was still looking good for a crossing Tuesday night to the Bahamas. We decided to go to either Lucaya or West End depending on winds and waves. After listening to all the weather reports and reading the fax's, we spent an anxious night with the challenge of the infamous Gulf Stream ahead of us, wondering why we put ourselves through all this. On Tuesday, the forecast held and the night crossing to Lucaya still looked good. We spent the day getting the boat ready for sea and securing the dinghy. We met two other boats that were planning to go as well, which was encouraging. We agreed to keep in contact and to leave the inlet about 5:00pm. This time should put us into Lucaya - a distance of about 85 miles - about 9:00am the next morning.

At 4:00pm, we upped anchor and proceeded about 4 miles down the ICW, past the main harbour and container ships, and out the channel to face the Gulf Stream and the Atlantic Ocean. The next stop was either the Bahamas or Africa. The winds were from the southeast and that was, you guessed it, right on the nose. The winds were relatively light, about 10 knots, steady and with no North component. The seas and Gulf Stream waves were supposed to be down. With the winds on the nose, we raised the mainsail and proceeded to motor sail towards the East. There was an expected chop for a couple miles near the channel exit, but after that, the seas settled down to a comfortable level. What really surprised us was the Gulf Stream started near the shore right outside the channel. It was supposed to be about 6 miles out but the easterly winds over the past few days had moved it close to shore. We were immediately steering a course of 140 degrees magnetic while going about 090 degrees true over ground with a speed about 4 knots. In other words, we were pointing toward Miami and crabbing sideways to the Bahamas. At first we thought that our compass was out but after a few checks we realized we were in the stream and could relax. The going was slow for awhile but the stream at this location was only about 20 miles wide. After about 5 hours we started to increase speed and head more Southerly toward our destination. The weather held as predicted and we had a beautiful, moonlit, starry crossing. There were only a few ships to watch out for - all visible by lights and radar. The Gulf Stream proved to be a non-event, which suited us well. We did have a bit of chop as we entered New Providence Channel just as I was trying to sleep. When Karen's shift was over, the seas calmed while she went to sleep. I do not know how she does that.

We arrived off the entrance to Port Lucaya about 7:30am and docked at Lucaya Village Marina at 8:15am. It was a beautiful, sunny day with temperatures in the mid-80's. We had to wait until 11:00am for customs and immigration to arrive and check us in. So after paying our money and getting all the various permits, we were officially in the Bahamas. We took down our quarantine flag and raised our Bahamas courtesy flag. The people in the marina had planned a potluck for that night, as it was New Years eve. We planned to go but later in the afternoon, the trip caught up with us and we went to bed and slept.

We woke up on January 1, 2004 to a sunny sky in the Bahamas - life is good. We cleaned the boat of all the salt picked up on the passage, an ongoing task, and got the boat back to cruising mode. That night was Junkanoo in Freeport and a bus had been arranged to take those interested into town. We arrived in the early evening, not knowing what to expect but being promised a great time. It was actually an incredible time and hard to describe. We went to downtown Freeport whose main street was cordoned off for the parade. Around the main street, stalls had been set up and were selling all sorts of cooked goodies from conch fritters to lobster tails to hot dogs. By about 6:00pm, the parade started. There were seven groups that went by, each taking about 30 minutes to go down the main street. Each group had about 100 people in the procession that consisted of dancers, an elaborate costumed (they start working on the costumes in July) group, brass group and drum group. The music and colourful, costumes have to be seen and experienced as very soon everyone is into the rhythm of the bands. The people in the parade are of all ages and anyone from the island can join a group and participate if they so desire. There was a great feeling of community as people in the stands encouraged friends in the parade. Each group tried to out do the others as this was a judged competition. We would be hard pressed to pick a winner. A Junkanoo is definitely something to attend if you get the opportunity.

Copyright © 2003-2005 Jim and Karen Lait
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