Gulf Stream and Happy New Year
On Monday, we left for Lake Worth. We had to negotiate seven bridges
in 30 miles. The bridge tenders were most cooperative, even delaying
scheduled openings for us to get through. We always thank the tenders
for the openings and wish them well. The bridge tenders on lift
bridges appear to play a bit of game with approaching boats. We would
radio ahead about a mile from the bridge that we were approaching and
request an opening. We would normally be told to keep on coming and
they would open when we got there. So we would proceed at full speed
towards a closed bridge. Just as I was starting to get nervous, the
traffic arms would go down. When I got really anxious, the bridge
would start to rise. Just as it reached full opening, we would be
going through. If I slowed down during this process, we would be
hailed to keep on coming as the tender was waiting for us. After seven
bridges, I was ready to call it a day. Also, there was lots of
holiday boat traffic (read large wakes!) that made the channel appear
a bit like the Hudson River. Guides recommend that the ICW between
Lake Worth and Miami be avoided on weekends for good reason.
We made it to Lake Worth about 3:00pm and anchored. Lake Worth, which
is near Palm Beach, is a large protected anchorage surrounded by
condos and homes. Boats normally wait there for favourable weather to
cross the Gulf Stream. The Lake Worth channel is a class A inlet with
freighters coming and going making it an all weather gateway to the
ocean. The weather was still looking good for a crossing Tuesday night
to the Bahamas. We decided to go to either Lucaya or West End
depending on winds and waves. After listening to all the weather
reports and reading the fax's, we spent an anxious night with the
challenge of the infamous Gulf Stream ahead of us, wondering why we
put ourselves through all this. On Tuesday, the forecast held and the
night crossing to Lucaya still looked good. We spent the day getting
the boat ready for sea and securing the dinghy. We met two other boats
that were planning to go as well, which was encouraging. We agreed to
keep in contact and to leave the inlet about 5:00pm. This time should
put us into Lucaya - a distance of about 85 miles - about 9:00am the
next morning.
At 4:00pm, we upped anchor and proceeded about 4 miles down the ICW,
past the main harbour and container ships, and out the channel to face
the Gulf Stream and the Atlantic Ocean. The next stop was either the
Bahamas or Africa. The winds were from the southeast and that was, you
guessed it, right on the nose. The winds were relatively light, about
10 knots, steady and with no North component. The seas and Gulf Stream
waves were supposed to be down. With the winds on the nose, we raised
the mainsail and proceeded to motor sail towards the East. There was
an expected chop for a couple miles near the channel exit, but after
that, the seas settled down to a comfortable level. What really
surprised us was the Gulf Stream started near the shore right outside
the channel. It was supposed to be about 6 miles out but the easterly
winds over the past few days had moved it close to shore. We were
immediately steering a course of 140 degrees magnetic while going
about 090 degrees true over ground with a speed about 4 knots. In
other words, we were pointing toward Miami and crabbing sideways to
the Bahamas. At first we thought that our compass was out but after a
few checks we realized we were in the stream and could relax. The
going was slow for awhile but the stream at this location was only
about 20 miles wide. After about 5 hours we started to increase speed
and head more Southerly toward our destination. The weather held as
predicted and we had a beautiful, moonlit, starry crossing. There were
only a few ships to watch out for - all visible by lights and radar.
The Gulf Stream proved to be a non-event, which suited us well. We did
have a bit of chop as we entered New Providence Channel just as I was
trying to sleep. When Karen's shift was over, the seas calmed while
she went to sleep. I do not know how she does that.
We arrived off the entrance to Port Lucaya about 7:30am and docked at
Lucaya Village Marina at 8:15am. It was a beautiful, sunny day with
temperatures in the mid-80's. We had to wait until 11:00am for customs
and immigration to arrive and check us in. So after paying our money
and getting all the various permits, we were officially in the
Bahamas. We took down our quarantine flag and raised our Bahamas
courtesy flag. The people in the marina had planned a potluck for that
night, as it was New Years eve. We planned to go but later in the
afternoon, the trip caught up with us and we went to bed and slept.
We woke up on January 1, 2004 to a sunny sky in the Bahamas - life is
good. We cleaned the boat of all the salt picked up on the passage, an
ongoing task, and got the boat back to cruising mode. That night was
Junkanoo in Freeport and a bus had been arranged to take those
interested into town. We arrived in the early evening, not knowing
what to expect but being promised a great time. It was actually an
incredible time and hard to describe. We went to downtown Freeport
whose main street was cordoned off for the parade. Around the main
street, stalls had been set up and were selling all sorts of cooked
goodies from conch fritters to lobster tails to hot dogs. By about
6:00pm, the parade started. There were seven groups that went by, each
taking about 30 minutes to go down the main street. Each group had
about 100 people in the procession that consisted of dancers, an
elaborate costumed (they start working on the costumes in July) group,
brass group and drum group. The music and colourful, costumes have to
be seen and experienced as very soon everyone is into the rhythm of
the bands. The people in the parade are of all ages and anyone from
the island can join a group and participate if they so desire. There
was a great feeling of community as people in the stands encouraged
friends in the parade. Each group tried to out do the others as this
was a judged competition. We would be hard pressed to pick a winner. A
Junkanoo is definitely something to attend if you get the opportunity.