I have saved the park for a separate update, as this area has to be the jewel of the Exumas. The park is an area about 22 miles long by 8 miles wide that has been set aside as a no take zone (no fishing). There are no commercial developments and the land and waters are to be kept in their natural form. The park has a ranger to enforce the policies and a group of mainly volunteers that work to maintain the park. Anyone can volunteer their services for a day, week or however long as they wish. The pay is the satisfaction of maintaining this area for the future.

We left Norman's and went directly to Warderick Wells as we were able to get a mooring ball assignment just before another cold front was due. You have to moor to protect the bottom and coral from anchors. We have spent almost two wonderful weeks here and are currently waiting for the present blow to subside before moving on. We have had a lot of windy weather (25+ knots) over the past week. During the first blow, we got our watermaker going for the first time. The water is crystal clear and you can watch the fish under our boat without any aids. After a bit of priming and fiddling about, the watermaker started to produce our first fresh water. The watermaker is a major convenience as we are independent of having to get water, which is not available in the park. The way we figure it, the first gallon of water cost us $3500 and all subsequent gallons are free. So with a bit of rum, we toasted the most expensive drinks we are likely to have and now can enjoy fresh water showers.

At Warderick Wells, we finally found isolated coral heads that we could dinghy to and snorkel without current. Down the West Side of the park, there are numerous, isolated beaches to explore and coral heads off shore. Each head has a thriving colony of different types of fish. We have seen lobster bigger than you can imagine, grouper, more different fish that we can name and, of course, barracuda and the occasional small shark. This has been the best snorkeling that we have found to date. One skill to be learned is getting into your dinghy from deep water. It is not as easy as it sounds and takes some practice to perfect a technique that works for you. First try it where you can be pulled ashore if you tire. Do not try it for the first time far off shore. It is not easy. Some people use steps to help them. We have found swimming up the side (with fins on) and beaching ourselves on a pontoon works for us. Even that took a few days to perfect.

We have also explored some of the many park trails that cross the island. The going is rough and most of the land is weathered, sharp limestone rock. We made the obligatory trip to Boo Boo hill. Boo Boo Hill is about 70 feet above sea level and boaters have been placing memorabilia there with boat names and dates for years (no plastic please). We placed a wooden cooking spoon in honour of Karen's baking successes during our travels. (Boo Boo is appropriate for some of the endeavors) By Boo Boo hill are blowholes that give off an eerie howl under the right sea conditions. One of the holes will also blow a fishing float, placed there for the purpose, several feet in the air. It also blew off my hat when I thought that it was not working. (Note: Jim's startle reflex WAS working} The office offers fresh cinnamon rolls in the morning if you order them the day before. It is great to sit at the office overlooking the anchorage, with coffee and cinnamon roll in hand. Banaquits (small birds) are eager to clean up the leavings from the roll. They love sugar and will eat sugar out of your hand.

I volunteered to work for a couple of days and got to tear apart old shelves and start with the construction of new. It was great to meet new people and see a bit more of the park. Karen stayed on board and got into cookie and bread making. Both of which were much appreciated. I think she enjoyed the time without me trying to schedule her activities.