The Exumas
We found Tevas. On Monday, we walked back to the shopping district to
check out the area and do some e-mail activities at an Internet
cafe. Along the route was a sports shoe store. In we walked and
there, on display, were the exact copies of the pair that I broke. So
within a few minutes, I was now the proud owner of a new pair of
Tevas. My inexpensive sandals had done good service but were now ready
for the scrap pile. Based on my experience, Karen got a backup pair as
well but she took longer to decide. With all the walking, we do wear
out the foot ware. We also visited a museum giving some of the history
of Nassau that was put together by volunteers. It was interesting
looking at the role Nassau played in the development of the Bahamas. A
book that we highly recommend that fictionalizes some of this history
is "Winds From the Carolinas" by Robert Wilder.
On Tuesday, winds, sunlight, and tides looked good so we left for
Allan's Cay. To get there, we had to pass over the Yellow Banks. This
is an area of relatively shallow water with periodic coral heads. You
need to arrive in this area about mid-day. With the sun overhead, it
is easier to spot the coral heads. We got there a little early, but
with Karen strapped to the mast (this was the fun part), she made
noises and frantic arm motions whenever a head got near and we
successfully wandered through the field. We anchored in Allan's Cay,
in time for a nice swim. Allan's is famous for the iguanas that
inhabit the small islands. These guys are quite inquisitive and come
out to greet you looking for handouts. There is a high-speed powerboat
that comes out of Nassau every day to bring people to feed the iguanas
so they are well conditioned. The iguanas are very near sighted so
many a finger has been mistaken for a bit of lettuce. To anchor, we
used the Bahamian anchoring technique. This involves using one anchor
up current and placing a second anchor down current. The current
changes during the day and the boat rides to whichever anchor is
upstream. We were surprised by the strength of the current that can
run to over 2 knots. You have to be careful swimming or snorkeling to
take this into account as it is difficult to do anything in a 2 knot
current except hang onto a tow line.
Next we moved onto Norman's Cay. Again the current was strong so we
used two anchors and tried to find some sheltered areas out of the
current for swimming and snorkeling. Norman's was made famous (or
infamous) for drug smuggling in the 80's as there was a major
smuggling operation set up there complete with airport, armed guards,
and buildings. The buildings are ruins now and you can wander through
them. We also walked up to McDuff's for a beer. McDuff's have the
best hamburgers for miles, in fact, the only hamburgers for miles.
They have set up a beautiful outdoor bar/restaurant that overlooks the
banks and have several cottages for rent. It is a great spot for lunch
or dinner. We did try to go to a small island with a sandy beach and
single palm tree for a swim. Just as we approached, we noticed a
small, 4-5 foot shark slowly swimming in the shallow water by the
beach. We both felt that either the shark or ourselves would have to
go and as he didn't, we did. The weather was windy and with the
current, snorkeling was difficult. We did not find any good coral
patches although I am sure they are there. We just needed more settled
weather.
I also got to cut Karen's hair for the first time. We went to a beach
just off the previous drug smuggling pier. She sat on the side of the
dingy while I did my Vidal Sassoon routine. It did turn out quite well
if I do say so myself and besides there were no mirrors within several
hundred yards so Karen was happy. A small cruise ship did decide to
pull up to the pier just as I was finishing. I was hoping to get more
customers but Karen wanted to go for a swim at the boat and to view
the results. We did meet up with friends that were at the same marina
in Lucaya so we had a great visit discussing happenings since our
respective departures.