Locks, locks and more locks
Well, we went up locks, we went down locks, we went in locks with
smooth walls and locks with rough walls, we had locks with ropes to
hang onto, pipes to hang onto, and/or cables to hang onto. Locking
down is definitely the most pleasurable and easy from a motion
standpoint (don't forget we have 9 feet of mast with all the
expensive bits at the ends hanging over both ends of the boat - we are
effectively a 55 foot powerboat). Locking up is a bit more turbulent
when the water first starts coming in and we had to pay attention to
keeping the boat parallel to the lock wall. Having said that, Karen
and I were able to manage the process and got it down to quite a
routine. Thin rubber gloves of the kitchen sink variety were all that
were necessary to keep you clean as the ropes tended to get slimy. The
lock keepers were extremely friendly and helpful and the lock areas
were all really well maintained. The lock keepers normally phoned
ahead to the next lock so they could be ready when you arrived. The
New York Canal System should be commended for their work. (A note for
those planning this same trip and worried, like we were, about going
through the locks. The first locks, going up, from Oswego are the
worst, partly because of inexperience and anxiety. But it only gets
better and those ones really are not that bad. Remember, powerboaters
choose to do this for fun and it is set up for them. The only thing
making it more difficult for sailboats is the mast hanging out so far
on each end of the boat, making maneuvering more tricky. But we were
able to dock at alongside walls all the way through and there was lots
of room and time to get sorted out in each lock. So donÎéÎ÷t worry
about it any more than any other new experience.)
By the time we were through the canal system, we had been through 30
locks and traveled 184 miles. We rose 175 feet above Lake Ontario and
then descended 420 feet to the Hudson River. Our favourite lock (Lock
17 for the technically inclined) was just out of Little Falls where we
had a 40 foot drop. It was impressive to motor into this 300 foot by
45 foot bathtub and look out over a valley in front of you - makes you
hope that reverse gear is working. We then descended at the speed of a
very, very slow elevator and watched wet cement walls rise all around
us. Then at the bottom of a 40 foot slimy cavern, the exit gate lifted
above the water. A lifting lock gate is somewhat unique as most gates
open out in front of you but this lock had a lifting gate (There is
another lock like this on the Ottawa River). We then motored under the
dripping gate (Karen went inside but left me and the charts out) and
out into the valley and proceeded down the canal. Most of the canal
follows rivers so the countryside is interesting and there are
numerous cottages along the banks.
The canal authority has set up numerous tie up areas where we could
stop for free (after paying $37.50 for a 10 day pass - we were on the
$3.75 a night docking plan being retired and all). A publication by
Skipper Bob gives the location and mileage to all these overnite spots
as well as marinas for fuel. Needless to say, we took 10 days to go
through the canal. You could do it in 3 to 4 days if pressed for time.
There were several towns along the way that make great stopovers for
exploring or provisioning. One neat spot was at Phoenix where we were
served breakfast on our boat by the Bridge House Brats - a group of
kids who assist boaters at the docks and serve breakfast as part of a
community sponsored activity.
We almost missed the great power outage. Actually we would have missed
it completely as we are self sufficient with the exception that we
chose the exact minute of the outage to start pumping diesel fuel into
our tank. Pumps do not work without electricity. Somehow we did manage
to fill up as the power came on for a while and we picked up on the
news the next day. Fortunately we were not in a lock at the time as
some of the locks did close down for a short while.
We ended the week at Fonda, New York - yes, it is home to the Fonda
clan. We picked up what we thought was an isolated dock. And it was,
until the stock car races started over the next embankment - Saturday
night in the country! Some of those cars sounded like they were
going through our boat.